EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

Italy produces a huge variety of olive oil, due not only to the availability of different types of olives, but also to varying soil, topographical and climatic conditions. The taste, colour and consistency of olive oil vary from one region to another, and this has given rise to a distinctive gastronomical culture where attempts are made to harmonise oil and dish, as one does with wine

We have chosen five olive oils from different regions of Italy. For those who like their oil with a strong, fruity olive taste, we would recommend the oils from Tuscany and Umbria. If on the other hand, you have a preference for a milder, more delicate olive oil, then the one from Lake Garda or Sabina are probably more suited to your palate.

HS HIGH STANDARD OIL
The certification of the extra virgin olive oils of superior quality
What HS is

It is the first certification of quality in the oil sector that makes reference to the actual product (Reg. UNI CEI EN 45011 and UNI CEI 70006) and not to the system of production (Reg. ISO 9000). It identifies extra virgin olive oils of a very high qualitative standard, which are analized and checked in every phase. HS guarantees, therefore, a defined and certified intrinsic quality, that takes no account of any emotive elements. As HS is a system available to all companies, it thus carries with it a particular value "erga omnes" and the relevance of a new product standard for the oils of high quality. The checks and verification of the declared properties of each oil are carried out by the CSQA Certificazione di Qualità Agroalimentare (a certification of food quality), that is, by the only internationally recognized Italian body to certify the quality of products in the food sector. CSQA is part of the IQNet International Certification Network.

Why HS

This is in order to offer consumers a guaranteed certification which identifies the extra virgin olive oils that satisfy quality requirements which are higher than the existing European and international standards. Various experts have frequently pointed out that the existing regulations, because of their generality and lenience, do not guarantee the absolute authenticity of a product, and therefore do nothing to identify the extra virgin oils of high grade. HS fills this gap by fixing undisputable scientific parameters to define "the top segment" of the extra virgin olive oils.

The HS Guarantees

The certification of quality offers the maximum guarantee of consumer protection. Each product is certified to be in compliance with the declared quality levels, and this is achieved by a monitoring of the entire production process and the carrying out of systematic analyses of all production lots under the supervision of the certifying body. Its value is given by the number and type of factors which are subject to valuation and checking that are laid down in a document called Disciplinare Tecnico di Produzione. This document defines the qualitative parameters, the types of analysis, the form and procedures to be strictly observed in order to guarantee the validity of a product. The HS designation has stricter parameters compared to the existing international standards and Codex Alimentarius, and includes some new standards of measurement which are totally innovative in the nutritional and health fields, thus implementing the concept of total quality of the extra virgin olive oils. The analyses are carried out in university laboratories and the organoleptic values are given by internationally recognized professional panels. The samples are taken by inspectors from every lot, and they are sealed until the time of the examination of the product. The numerical check of the bottles is guaranteed by a special "register of bottling" in which detailed note is made of the various lots and serial numbers of the special seals of guarantee, numbered progressively on each bottle.

The HS Quality Parameters

Before discussing the details of this subject, it is necessary to put on record that fats in general, contrary to the widely held belief, are indispensable for a healthy way of life, along with the principal nutrients such as proteins, carbohydrates, vitamins, mineral salts and water. As well as providing energy, they have important functions as constituents of the phospholipids, elments found in the cellular membranes of all the tissues, and of the lipoproteins which are transported in the blood stream and help to develop some types of hormones. They are also necessary for the absorption of some vitamins, called liposolubles (A, D, E, K), and help to make some types of food more appetizing. In addition, some polyunsaturated fats are indispensable for the human organism which is unable to synthesise them. That is why these elements (linoleic and linolenic) are defined essential fatty acids. The human body's daily requirement of fats is estimated at 25-30% of the overall total calorie intake. Higher levels are not well tolerated by the human organism, but lower levels of fat intake are often associated with a reduction of high density lipoproteins (HDL) that are important as a regulator of the level of cholesterol. The biological significance and the intrinsic value of fats are linked however to the same nature of the fatty acids that compose the triglycerides, together with the presence of important microelements, among which the antioxidants (tocopherols, phenolic groups and carotenoids) phospholipids, hydrocarbons like squalene, terpenic alchohols, sterols, colored and aromatic substances. The problem of regulating the level of lipids in the organism must not be considered with respect to the neutral fats (triglycerides), but with regard to the different characteristics of the various types of fatty acids whose properties are fundamental for the equilibrium of the lipidic and non-lipidic metabolism. All the important factors that constitute what can be defined Total Quality are all present in HS products: superior organoleptic and sensorial characteristics, exceptional nutritional requirements, and high health giving properties.

Organoleptic and sensorial characteristics

Extra virgin olive oil is a condiment, acknowledged to be the best; therefore it must give taste to foods and make them more appetizing: in other words, it must improve the gastronomic quality of food preparations. All the HS oils, therefore, must be characterized by a certified high organoleptic quality. Obviously the consumer, within the range of HS products, can select those which satisfy his palate and which best combine with the different foods. Every HS oil must therefore obtain a vote of excellence in the panel test. It is worth pointing out that European legislation does not impose any obligation for the virgin olive oils to be put to this test. This is one of the reasons why one finds oils on the market without particular flavors, or even with unpleasant odors and tastes, which are sold as extra virgin.

Nutritional requirements

Olive oil is considered the best among all the fats, specially for its acidic composition. The HS oils possess an exceptional level of these important elements. The level of oleic acid (monounsaturate), the most healthy for the human body and present in our cells, is guaranteed in a minimum percentage of 70%. The international regulations require a level of only 55%. For the linoleic acid (polyunsaturate), those same regulations call for a minimum level of 3.5%, insufficient for a healthy diet, and a maximum up to 21% that, on the contrary, is too high and potentially harmful. In HS, the quota of this fundamental component goes from a minimum of 5% up to a maximum of 12%. With regard to the linolenic acid, (polyunsaturate with three double links), the requirement is a level not higher than 0.9%, since higher levels would generate serious "oxidization stress". On this subject, it is opportune to record that even if "essential", the polyunsaturated acids must be consumed in well-defined limited quantities, in as much that, as scientifically proved, high doses accelerate the cell oxidization process which could create serious pathologies. Scientific research indicates a maximum percentage of 10% of polyunsaturates for the quota of lipids in the calorie count of the diet. It is necessary to point out, as epidemiologically proven, that a diet with an excess of polyunsaturates causes a 30% increase in deaths for non-vascular motives, among which, an increase in tumors in general and in particular of the breast, prostate and colon. Another parameter required by the HS Discipline is the level of acidity. Its maximum level is fixed at 0.5% compared to 1% for the official regulation. This value, despite the emphasis placed on this by the publicity and communication of several large industrial groups, is in reality a requirement of only relative importance, in that it is common to all the oils that are extracted from healthy and correctly pressed olives. This parameter has become even less significant given the widely used illegal practice of deacidification, which goes unchecked with the existing official analytical methods.

Health Benefits

The HS oils possess a high presence of so-called "insaponificabili" substances (which are fats that cannot be converted into soap), with a high antioxidant content. These are well noted for preserving the quality and duration of the product, containing strong anti-aging properties, as well as other important health functions including the prevention of serious diseases such as tumors. The official legislation does not require the measurement of these substances, while the HS certification not only requires it, but imposes a high level. Thanks to the innovative method, oxidative chain breaking activity, perfected by Prof. L. Conte, lecturer in food chemistry at the University of Udine, and co-ordinator of the experts in this field of the European Union, it is possible for the first time to measure precisely the antioxidizing capacity of fats. This particular characteristic is measured in an equivalent quantity of vitamin E. On average, the HS oils possess the equivalent of 1gram of pure vitamin E for every 1000/1600 grams of oil. Therefore, people who regularly use normal portions of HS extra virgin olive oils will be able to rely on the certainty of preventing several serious diseases, including heart attacks and strokes. Incidentally, it is worth noting that this vitamin has recently been used with extraordinary success in therapeutic applications. In fact, at the Istituto Umberto I in Rome, last April, 12 patients who were waiting for surgical operations were cured of the forementioned diseases through the administration of this powerful, natural antioxidant directly into the arteries for a period of 30 days. The details of this case have been published in the well known American magazine, Circulation.

Who has promoted HS

The certification HS

High Standard has been promoted, after two years of study and preparation by the Consortium Oil Masters Corporation, the operative arm of the Corporazione dei Mastri Oleari ONLUS with the collaboration of well known experts and researchers. The Corporazione dei Mastri Oleari is the prestigious interprofessional association comprising producers and experts in this particular field, that draws its name and symbol from the ancient corporation of arts and skills that regulated this sector from the 14th century. The Corporation, for more than 15 years, is involved in the diffusion of the culture of this sector, with the aim of improving the quality of the products and the professionalism of the producers, and regularly supplies precise information to the media and consumers.

STORAGE

Olive oil should be stored in a cool, dark place, away from detergents and other strong-smelling substances.

ADDITIONAL READING

For further information, please consult Judy Ridgway’s excellent book, The Olive Oil Companion, published by Quintet Publishing Limited.

TRADITIONAL BALSAMIC VINEGAR

This is a thick, dark-brown liquid with a smooth, velvety, spicy taste which sets it apart from all other vinegars. Aceto balsamico has an ancient history, dating back over 900 years to when it was first produced by noble families in and around Modena and Reggio Emilia.

The vinegar is derived from the cooked must of the Trebbiano and other local grapes, which is then left to age in rows of wooden barrels, called a battery. This process of maturation can last from a minimum of 12 years up to several decades, during which time the vinegar is slowly filtered from one barrel to another. Usually there are 5 barrels in the battery, the largest holding about 27 gallons (100 litres) down to about 4 gallons (15 litres) for the smallest. Each barrel is only about three-quarters full, allowing the vinegar to react with the air inside. Another important factor in the process is the location of the battery, which is usually in an attic, thus ensuring that the vinegar is subjected to temperature extremes. The spicy, balsamic taste is also partly derived from the barrels, which tend to be of oak, chestnut and cherry for the larger ones, and juniper and mulberry for the smaller ones.

Each year, only a small amount is drawn from the smallest barrel, which contains the oldest vinegar. This barrel is then replenished from the penultimate barrel which in turn is filled from the next size up, and so on.

Traditional balsamic vinegar is one of Italy’s culinary treasures. Only a few drops are sufficient to turn a simple salad, main course, strawberries(!), or even ice-cream into something quite exquisite.

We have spoken above of the real, the costly "traditional" balsamic vinegar, which is usually to be found only in specialist shops and must have the word "tradizionale" on its label. This must not be confused with a much commoner and cheaper imitation available in all supermarkets, simply labelled Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, whose main ingredient invariably is wine vinegar rather than cooked grape must. This, in effect, is industry’s attempt to imitate the original product and offer it to a wider public.

We offer what can be described as the best of both worlds — namely, two of the finest traditional balsamic vinegars from Reggio Emilia and Modena. The one from Reggio Emilia is the work of Il Cavaliere, Ferdinando Cavalli, and is drawn from a battery of barrels laid down in 1951.The quality content of every bottle is checked by the Technical Committee of the Consortium of Producers of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia, and the bottle carries the Consortium’s label and wax seal of approval.

Our traditional balsamic vinegar from Modena is guaranteed over 12 years old and bears the name, L’Acetaia del Cristo del Azienda Agricola Barbieri. This has received much acclaim in Italy and Germany for its wonderfully smooth, syrupy taste. Each bottle is approved and sealed by the Modenese Consortium.

A recipe booklet is included in each box.

We also have available, in limited quantities, Reggio Emilia’s Silver and Gold Labels (over 50 and 75 years of age respectively), and the Modena Extra Vecchio (over 25 years old). These can be supplied on special request.

BALSAMIC VINEGAR

This year, we have introduced a younger balsamic vinegar by Cavalli of Reggio Emilia which is considerably cheaper and ideal for everyday use. Simply called Condimento Cavalli, this is comprised of nothing but cooked grape must which has been left to age for a shorter period of time in wooden barrels.